Exploring Provence on a bike

Cabrières-d’Avignon to Roussillon to Bonnieux

The sweet smell of a Provencal summer is just delightful after having had a cold for most of the Australian winter. I feel privileged to be able to visit Provence where I can rest up, relax and enjoy the summer sunshine.

While I was staying at Cabrières-d’Avignon during August, I visited some of the beautiful medieval villages not to mention tasting the fantastic cheese and a huge choice of rosés…more about that in another blog post.

View of the Roussillon village

View of the Roussillon village

One morning I went on a 50 kilometre bike ride around the Luberon which was fantastic. I was not as fit as my local friendly guide who was twice my age so it was a bit embarrassing that he had to wait for me at the top of some of the hills. The ride took us 4 hours including a stop off and a short look around the picturesque village of Bonnieux.

We set off at 0845 and after biking for about 20 minutes, we paused to take a few photos of the 12th century church at Saint-Pantaléon. Then we headed along the mainly deserted roads passing by orchards, vegetable patches and abandoned vineyards. We also passed a few wineries but it was too warm and we had a long way to go so we didn’t stop and taste. We had amazing views of the Luberon Valley and the medieval villages on the hillsides such as Gordes and Lacoste. We passed by a few bories (small rounded huts built of stones) and old wells and could see the famous Mont Ventoux in the background at 1,912 metres.

We then biked up to the village of Roussillon well-known for the ochre which is found in the clay around the village. These range in different colours to yellow, orange and red which cover the buildings in different shades making it such a colourful and vibrant looking village. During the 18th century mining of ochre started and used in the textile industry. However by the 20th century most of the mines has closed with tourism and agriculture replacing it as the source of income. At the start of the ochre trail there is a stunning view of the village perched on the hillside radiating the different shades of ochre from the buildings.

We then headed off to Bonnieux where we stopped for a coffee and a small tour of the village climbing almost to the top on our bikes. Here we popped into a wonderful store called Aux Doigts de Fée where the owner, Martine, has been hand making clothes and selling them in her shop for 30 years, 7 days a week. We’re hoping she can indeed retire soon, which is her wish, so she can start to enjoy life; biking, relaxing; at the age of 67! While here, waiting at the traffic lights I saw an electric car, Renault Zoe, hopefully a sign of things to come so we can gradually stop polluting the Church in Bonnieuxenvironment.

Coming back we biked through Les Beaumettes where I’m told there’s a good café. What was even better was the water tap so I could refill my bottles with water, I was so thirsty! Then on one of the roads leading to Cabrières-d’Avignon we talked to a stone mason, who specialises in building walls made in local stone. This wall which stretches far around the corner has so far taken him 18 months! My local guide has come to know him well, passing him weekly with his bike group. What he has done is incredible and in such extreme heat over this past summer especially!

I highly recommend biking around the Luberon. Just make sure you remember you bike on the correct side of the road!

 

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